How to Build a Skincare Routine That Actually Works

Walk into any pharmacy and you’ll be confronted with hundreds of serums, toners, essences, and moisturisers all promising transformation. The truth? Most people need far fewer products than the industry suggests — and using too many is one of the most common causes of sensitive, reactive skin I see in clinic.

Step 1: Cleanse — but gently

Your cleanser should remove dirt, sunscreen, and excess oil without stripping your skin barrier. Look for a pH-balanced, fragrance-free formula. If your skin feels tight after washing, your cleanser is too harsh. Cleansing once in the morning and once at night is sufficient for most skin types.

Step 2: Treat — one active at a time

Serums and treatments are where you address specific concerns: acne, pigmentation, fine lines. My rule for patients: start with one active ingredient, use it consistently for 8 weeks before adding another. The most evidence-backed ingredients are vitamin C (morning), retinoids (night), and niacinamide (any time). Do not layer vitamin C with niacinamide — this combination reduces the efficacy of both.

Step 3: Moisturise — even oily skin

A moisturiser maintains your skin barrier and prevents water loss. Oily skin still needs moisture — skipping it often triggers more oil production. For oily or acne-prone skin, choose a lightweight, non-comedogenic gel. For dry skin, look for ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and shea butter.

Step 4: SPF — non-negotiable

Sunscreen is the single most evidence-based anti-aging and skin-cancer prevention product available. Use SPF 30 minimum, broad-spectrum, every single morning — even indoors, even in winter. Reapply every 2 hours when outdoors. This is the one step I’d keep if I had to choose only one.

What about toners, essences, and eye creams?

These are optional. A well-formulated moisturiser covers what most toners and essences claim to do. Eye creams can be useful if the skin around your eyes is drier than the rest of your face — but they are not magic. Always patch-test anything new on your inner arm for 48 hours before applying to your face.